The Grissino Stirato and Rubatą - Its history
Vittorio Amedeo II Duke of Savoy was born at Turin in 1666 and was
crowned the first Savoy King in 1713.
As a child Vittorio Amedeo was frail and sickly so his mother, the
second Madama Reale, worried by the state of his health called to
court a famous physician of the time, Don Baldo Pecchio from Lanzo
Torinese. The doctor immediately had a stroke of genius and
diagnosed food poisoning - gastro-enteritis in modern parlance
- caused by the ingestion of bread polluted with intestinal
pathogenic germs. Those days, bread - the so-called ghėssa or
grissia - was produced rather improperly from the hygienic
standpoint and was generally cooked badly, indeed not nearly
enough.
So Don Baldo, remembering certain small grissias his mother was
wont to bake for him when he suffered from a similar intestinal
problem as a child, ordered Court master baker Antonio Brunero to
prepare a very thin and twice-cooked bread, to destroy any micro-organism
present in the dough with perfect baking. The end result was the grissino,
hygienically perfect and un-polluted by any germ whatsoever.
The story goes that the Duke's physician fed and cured the noble scion with this bread.
The ghėssa led to the ghėrsin or small ghėssa, Italianised into grissino.
So the first grissino was born and Turin also won the nickname of Grissinopoli.
Vittorio Amedeo II, miraculously healed by the grissino, grew to
become the first Savoy king. There followed the rapid rise of the
Savoy dynasty, that privileged Piedmont, laid the foundations of
the Italian Risorgimento and the subsequent creation of the
Kingdom of Italy. It follows that we might well say today
that 'After the Grissino was born, so was the Italian Risorgimento!'
The success of this celebrated Turin bread (greatly appreciated by
Napoleon who called it 'Le petit bāton de Turin') grew rapidly and
conquered the whole world and became the Bread of Kings and the
King of Breads.
The Grissino stirato
Note:
For producing grissini stirati, only use soft wheat flour with very
elastic gluten, to allow lengthening or ironing of the dough while
suspended in the air.
Organoleptic properties of the grissino stirato:
Fragrant aroma; delicate and exclusive taste; light golden hue;
maximum friability and crunchiness; irregular cylindrical shape due
to manual lengthening.
The Grissino rubatą of Chieri
All the same as for the grissino stirato, except for ironing. This
type of grissino in fact requires the roll being lengthened by
rolling it manually on the work table (only up to some 40
centimetres or so). The dough will therefore carry the imprints of
the grissino maker's fingers; also they are not broken into
separate pieces after baking.
The flour can be the same type as used for common bread, since
ironing is by simple finger pressure.
Organoleptic properties of the grissino rubatą:
Fragrant aroma; taste closer to bread; light golden hue; less
friable and crunchy; stick shape with typical humps caused
by finger pressure.